Azelaic Acid

written by
Dr Malvina Cunningham
Consultant Dermatologist, BSc, MBBS, MRCP (Derm), PhD
GMC:7044467

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid produced by yeast that lives on normal skin and is also found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye.

It acts as a chemical exfoliator unblocking pores, while targeting and eliminating the acne-causing bacteria, Cutibacterium Acnes. Azelaic acid is an antioxidant, fighting inflammation, reducing redness and treating the spots caused by acne and rosacea.

What is azelaic acid used for?

As well as  fighting inflammation, reducing redness and treating the spots caused by acne and rosacea, Azelaic acid also slows down the production of melanin, helping to fight pigmentation caused by sun damage, melasma and acne. Its exfoliating properties have also been shown to improve skin texture.

In the treatment of acne, azelaic acid works by clearing bacteria from pores that can cause irritation or breakouts. It’s also an anti-inflammatory that makes spots less irritated, red and visible. Lastly it encourages cell turnover, healing skin and reducing scarring. 

With hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid stops discoloured skin cells from populating, with rosacea its anti-inflammatory properties have been shown to improve the appearance of swelling and visible blood vessels. 

What are the benefits of using azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. When applied topically, it can have a number of benefits, including:

  • Acne treatment: Azelaic acid can help reduce break-outs and improve the overall appearance of the skin by unclogging pores and reducing the growth of the bacteria that causes spots and acne.
  • Improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone.
  • Rosacea treatment: Azelaic acid can help to reduce redness and inflammation associated with rosacea.
  • Anti-ageing benefits: Azelaic acid can help to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and signs of ageing by stimulating collagen production.
  • Brightening the skin: Azelaic acid can help to brighten and even out the skin tone by inhibiting the production of melanin.

Are there side effects from using azelaic acid?

For those just starting out using azelaic acid, irritation can sometimes occur as the skin adjusts to the ingredient. Usually, this irritation is mild and gets better as regular use of the treatment continues. Azelaic acid can also sometimes cause skin discolouration and lightening – particularly in darker skin types.

Common azelaic acid side effects

  • Heightened sensitivity (tingling or burning sensation)
  • peeling skin 
  • dryness or redness

Less-common azelaic acid side effects

  • flaking skin
  • irritation 
  • hives and itching

If any of the above occur, stop using your topical cream and contact your Prescriber immediately.

While it’s crucial to apply sunscreen daily, it’s especially important to wear SPF when using azelaic acid as it can make your skin more prone to sun damage.

What products can contain azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is found in various skincare products, including cleansers, moisturisers, gels and serums. Skin + Me’s Daily Doser personalised treatment may contain azelaic acid.