Niacinamide

written by
Dr Malvina Cunningham
Consultant Dermatologist, BSc, MBBS, MRCP (Derm), PhD
GMC:7044467

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3. It can be found in food and in medication, and can be used as a dietary supplement or applied topically on the skin. Think of it as a vitamin that’s beneficial for our bodies as part of a healthy diet (niacin is found in foods such as grains, fish, meat and beans and converts to niacinamide when eaten) and keeps our skin healthy when applied topically. 

Niacinamide is an antioxidant that tackles a myriad of skin concerns from oil regulation to barrier repair, and boosts cell rejuvenation for a healthy, more radiant complexion. It can be found in many skincare products off the shelf, and mixes well with more potent ingredients too.

What is niacinamide used for?

Niacinamide improves the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduces hyperpigmentation, moisturises the skin and helps to regulate the skin’s oil production – which helps to battle acne and rosacea. Niacinamide also works as an antioxidant and helps to fight harmful compounds caused by sun damage. It also increases the production of ceramides, which moisturise the skin. This is especially useful in minimising some of the possible side effects of other active ingredients.

What are the benefits of using niacinamide?

  • Brightening the skin and reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation
  • Improving the skin barrier function and reducing water loss, which can help with hydration and preventing dryness
  • Reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and signs of ageing
  • Improving the overall texture and tone of the skin
  • Helping to reduce inflammation and redness
  • Helping to regulate oil production, which can be beneficial for people with oily or acne-prone skin.

Possible niacinamide side effects

Niacinamide is usually tolerated well by most skin types. In rare instances, it has been known to cause mild stinging, slight redness or irritation.

Which products can contain niacinamide?

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, including:

  • Moisturisers: Many moisturisers, especially those formulated for oily or acne-prone skin, contain niacinamide as an ingredient to help regulate oil production and improve the skin barrier function.
  • Treatments, spot treatments and serums: These are often formulated with high concentrations of niacinamide to target specific skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. Skin + Me’s Daily Doser personalised treatment may contain niacinamide.
  • Sunscreen: Some sunscreen products contain niacinamide as an ingredient to provide additional skin benefits while protecting the skin from sun damage.
  • Facial Cleansers: Some cleansers contain niacinamide as an ingredient to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
  • Toners: Some toners contain niacinamide as an ingredient to help balance the skin’s pH level and improve overall skin texture and tone.

Combining niacinamide with tretinoin and other active ingredients

Niacinamide is an incredibly amenable ingredient – it gets on with most other actives. Because it’s such a multi-tasker, it can be combined with spot-clearing additions like salicylic acid or (in the case of a personalised treatment) cell-rejuvenating retinoids like tretinoin.

Should I use Vitamin C or niacinamide?

Both ingredients are antioxidants with similarities and you may often find them combined in over-the-counter products. Depending on what skin goal you’re looking to address, vitamin C has a brightening effect on the skin and niacinamide plays a more valuable role in skin hydration.

Should I use tretinoin, retinol or niacinamide?

Retinol and niacinamide have similar benefits but retinol is more potent than niacinamide and tretinoin is more potent than retinol. Ultimately, it’s about building up your active ingredient use slowly, under the supervision of dermatologists. Some people’s skin builds tolerance quicker than others and the goal is to get maximum results with minimal side effects. Combining niacinamide with tretinoin negates the chance of side effects as your skin builds tolerance to this powerful retinoid and helps to keep it hydrated.