Ingredient Deep Dive: Peptides

Feel like you’ve been hearing about peptides a lot recently? You’re not alone. These skincare heroes have gained a lot of attention recently – over on TikTok, the hashtag #peptides has 300 million views and counting – and skincare novices and experts alike are keen to put some pep(tides) in their skincare steps. 

But peptides aren’t just a passing trend. They really do deserve their reputation as one of the most exciting ingredients out there – that’s why we included them in the new Skin + Me Brighten + Boost range of morning serums. We sat down with Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical at Skin + Me, to find out what peptides are, how they can benefit your skin, and how you can incorporate them into your routine.

What are peptides?

Time for a very quick science lesson (we promise it won’t take long). “Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins,” explains Dr Jason. There are several different types of peptides, but usually peptides in skincare are a kind called signalling peptides – they carry information about proteins – and carrier peptides – they help with protein production. 

Why is this relevant to your skin? Well, the proteins built by peptides include “collagen, elastin, and keratin, which are essential for maintaining the skin’s structure, elasticity, and firmness,” says Dr Jason.

What are the benefits of peptides?

As Dr Jason mentioned, peptides can help boost the production of essential proteins, which keep your skin looking supple and healthy. They’re also great multitaskers, so you can use different peptides to target specific skin concerns – depending on your goals, Dr Jason says you can look out for peptides that will: 

• Improve skin barrier function, enhancing hydration and protection
• Target specific skin concerns like wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven texture
• Reducing redness and skin sensitivity

Which peptides are best for my skin?

Products with peptides will usually list which specific skin concerns they target, so if you do your research then you’ll know which one is best for you. 

If you’re a skincare pro and want a few names to look out for, then here are our derms’ favourites – in fact, they’re so beloved that we decided to use them in the new Brighten + Boost serum range. Don’t be put off by their scientific-sounding names – we promise they’re not scary. 

• Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 – found in Brighten + Boost Firming Vitamin C Serum, targets the early signs of ageing
• Heptapeptide-6 – found in Brighten + Boost Calming Azelaic Acid Serum, reduces redness
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 – found in Brighten + Boost Regulating Vitamin C Serum, brightens the skin.

And the good news is, if you can’t find the exact peptide you want, a different peptide will probably still bring some benefits to your skin.

How can you incorporate peptides into your skincare routine?

“Peptides can be introduced into your skincare regime through serums, moisturisers, and eye creams,” explains Dr Jason. You might also find them in cleansers, but you’ll get more out of them if you let them soak into the skin rather than wash them away. 

Depending on your chosen product, you can use them whenever you want throughout the day. “Given their versatility and numerous benefits, they seamlessly integrate into both morning and nighttime routines,” says Dr Jason. 

We love combination skincare here on The Dose, so it’s great to know that peptides “generally play well with other active ingredients so you’ll often find them in good multi-tasking skincare products.” In particular, peptides work really well with vitamin C and azelaic acid to create highly effective antioxidant formulations – that’s why we’ve added them to our Brighten + Boost serums.

Just remember not to overload your skin with products – a streamlined routine that you can easily stick to is best.

Do peptides have any side effects?

Peptides don’t usually have any side effects, and they are suitable for daily use as part of your skincare routine. However, peptides are sometimes mixed into products with other potent ingredients that might cause very mild irritation, like azelaic acid or vitamin C. 

If your skin is sensitive then it’s always a good idea to approach new ingredients with caution. You can test a few drops of your new product on a small patch of delicate skin and leave it for a few hours. If your skin doesn’t react, then you can go ahead and use it on your face. 

And, as always, stop using any ingredient that causes you any significant discomfort. If you’re a Skin + Me member, you can also reach out to your Dermatology Clinician for peace of mind at any time.