Ingredient Deep Dive: Shea Butter

When it comes to skincare, ingredients should be your number one concern. Texture, smell and packaging are important factors, but when it comes down to it, what goes on your face is what matters most. That’s why we have our Ingredient Deep Dive series, to demystify your skincare and give you the lowdown on the very best ingredients. 

Today, we’re taking a look at shea butter, the sometimes misunderstood moisturiser. With a little help from our expert Dermatology Team, you’ll get the full story on this super soother. 

What is shea butter?

Shea butter (pronounced shay, not she-ah) originates from the seeds of the shea fruit tree, native to western and central Africa. The kernels are removed from the seeds, ground into a powder and boiled. This allows the butter solids to form and rise to the surface. 

Shea butter’s natural off-white colour, smooth texture and natural origin make it a popular ingredient in cosmetic products, but it’s also been used for medicinal purposes, and in food – either to eat or to cook with. It’s also the main ingredient in African black soap – a popular natural soap among the African diaspora, and growing in popularity in the UK and US. 

Why is shea butter so great?

Professor Kathrin Schreckenberg from the Center for International Forestry Research writes, “Shea butter’s hydrating, protecting and softening properties make it a valuable ingredient in skincare creams and shampoos.” 

Shea butter has a naturally high concentration of vitamins and fatty acids, so you’ll often find it in ultra-hydrating moisturisers, or in natural remedies for dry or inflamed skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and dandruff. 

It has a cooling, calming effect on inflamed or irritated skin, while its occlusive and emollient properties help to lock in moisture to prevent water loss, and protect the skin from environmental damage. This makes it a popular ingredient for winter skincare routines and hydrating lip balms. 

What’s more, shea butter’s healing properties can help fade acne and wound scars. “Moisturisers containing barrier-friendly ingredients like shea butter are great at repairing our barrier and protecting it.”, explains Dr Malvina Cunningham, Consultant Dermatologist for Skin + Me.

Is shea butter comedogenic?

On the whole, shea butter is non-comedogenic – which means it shouldn’t clog pores or cause spots. Despite being a natural butter, there is an ongoing debate over whether it’s likely to break you out. 

For most people, shea butter is non-comedogenic, as it’s naturally antimicrobial, but it’s important to remember that everyone’s skin is different – just because it shouldn’t clog pores, doesn’t mean it won’t. A good rule of thumb is to patch test or try a sample of a product you want to use, and see what happens before you commit to using it as part of your daily routine.

Does shea butter have any side effects?

Other than a very small risk of allergies (particularly if you’re already allergic to tree nuts), and the possibility of breakouts, shea butter has no known side effects. It’s soothing, anti-inflammatory properties mean it’s unlikely to cause flakiness or peeling. 

How should I use shea butter in my routine?

If you have dry, sensitive skin or feel like you need a hit of hydration in the winter months, look for a moisturiser with shea butter, as its emollient properties will help with water retention in the skin. 

If you’re looking for lip care, shea butter should be a mainstay of your routine – especially when it gets colder, as your lips are more prone to chafing. 

And for all over bodycare, you can’t go wrong with a luxurious body butter. Scented or fragrance-free, so long as it’s got shea butter, you can expect smooth and supple skin from head to toe.