What To Do When Your Skin Is Purging

You’re a few weeks into using active ingredients and everything’s going well. No side effects or dryness, and your skin is looking better than ever, thanks to your new retinol, tretinoin or azelaic acid. Then, just when you think you’re making progress, you start to see more spots. More pimples in new places, and they’re much bigger and more painful than before. 

What’s your first move? Do you: A) Stop the treatment and let your skin go back to how it was? Or B) Continue using your skincare and power through the purge?

Choose option A and your skin may improve temporarily, but if you’re trying to treat a certain skin goal such as acne or pigmentation, you could lose all the progress you’ve made so far.

Choose option B and you stand a much better chance of seeing your desired results. There may be a skin-purging period, which can last for up to six weeks, but once it’s over, you’ll be glad you stuck with it. So, let’s remind ourselves what skin purging is, and how to get through it together. 

What is skin purging?

Skin purging is the term for a temporary increase in spots when you start using a powerful active ingredient, such as a retinoid like tretinoin, or azelaic acid.

“Purging is when you experience a breakout of spots or a worsening of existing acne in response to starting a new skin treatment,” explains Dr Ben Esdaile, Consultant Dermatologist at Skin + Me. “This can be extremely frustrating when the treatment appears to be making your skin worse instead of better. If this happens to you, don’t panic – this is a normal process in the journey to clearing your skin and is known to occur in up to a quarter of people with acne.”

Active ingredients increase skin cell turnover and target blocked pores, penetrating deeper into the skin, and bringing everything from below the surface up to the top. The increased skin cell turnover means that pores can become clogged, and this creates comedones in the form of whiteheads and blackheads. Your skin may look and feel more congested, but this is temporary. Think of it like this – your skin is having a little declutter to get rid of all the bad stuff.

How can I reduce the likelihood of purging?

Firstly, you should do your research before using products that may cause purging. Educate yourself about your skin type and how it’s likely to react to your new ingredients – you’ll find plenty of information right here on The Dose to help you make an informed decision.

You should also take it slow. Introduce new products or ingredients gradually to see how your skin reacts to them, and don’t overload your skin with several powerful active ingredients all at once. That’s why our personalised solutions from Skin + Me are tailormade for your skin, with ingredients and strengths increasing over time.

“Our treatments contain scientifically-proven active ingredients which are formulated into unique combinations, and concentrations that gradually increase over time, which help to give the best results, whilst minimising the risk of experiencing any side effects,” explains Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical at Skin + Me.

What should I do if I’m purging?

We know that progress takes time, and allowing that to happen is step number one when you’re purging. Purging is temporary, and it won’t last forever – your skin needs to adjust to the new active ingredients in your regime. Keeping consistent will help you through this phase, as your skin will gradually adapt.

A simple, stripped back skincare routine will also help your skin to acclimatise. A gentle cleanser will wash away buildup and excess oil, while a nourishing moisturiser will help keep your skin barrier in check. Add a sunscreen with at least SPF 50 to protect your skin every day, whatever the weather. Our Skin + Me supportive range is specifically designed for use with active ingredients – find it here.

Usually purging lasts for around six to eight weeks at most, so it can be comforting to know that the end is in sight. If you’re a Skin + Me member and your purging stage has lasted for longer, or is particularly intense, then we’d recommend you reach out to our Dermatology Support Team for advice. Sometimes our experts will advise that you give your skin a break, use your solution every second evening, or offer a reformulation with different ingredients that are more suited to your skin.

Focus on progress, not perfection

We’ve covered the physical stuff, but the link between mental health and skin is well documented, so you need to look after yourself during the purging period.

Remember, there’s no such thing as flawless skin. Skincare is a process, and it’s all about progress rather than perfection. Whether you’re going through a temporary purge, or even if you’re dealing with a chronic skin condition, it helps to reframe your thinking around what makes ‘good’ skin.

By taking it one step at a time and choosing to surround yourself with positive influences, you stand a much better chance of feeling content with your skin. Instead of having a perfect image in mind, try to think about how you can make positive personal progress. Take a look at our recent campaign for some inspiration and learn about Skin + Me customers who have been through a journey with their skin.

Whether you’re following influencers who speak openly about their skin struggles or unfollowing accounts that only show airbrushed perfection, surrounding yourself with media that reflects reality can only be positive. Take some time to seek out people whose journeys reflect your own – if you’ve been experiencing acne, there’s no point in taking advice from someone who has dry skin. What works for someone else isn’t necessarily going to work for you, especially if you have completely different skin types. 

And, if you’re struggling with your skin, then it’s worth talking to a trusted friend or family member about how you feel or reaching out to your GP. We’d also recommend taking a look at Acne Support’s advice here, where you’ll find some useful helplines and resources.

Final thoughts

Purging can be frustrating, but when you come out the other side, your skin should be happier and healthier than ever. You’ll find plenty more tips right here on The Dose, so drop by whenever you need skincare advice or inspiration. Remember to stay positive, take it one step at a time, and focus on your own progress, not anyone else’s – we believe in you.