Ask A Dermatologist: Do Collagen Supplements Actually Work?

Sometimes it feels like you can’t scroll for two minutes without seeing colourful jars of supplements promising to solve all your skincare concerns. From gummies to liquid shots, collagen supplements in particular are on the rise – but do they actually help your skin? Dr Jason Thomson, Consultant Dermatologist at Skin + Me, is here to mythbust their claims. 

What is collagen and what does it do for our skin?

Collagen is a protein that plays a major role in the structure of our body tissues. It’s in your skin, but it’s also in your hair, nails, cartilage and organs – in fact, there are 28 different kinds of collagen known to exist in the human body. 

“Collagen is the major scaffolding component of our skin, giving it its structure, support and also contributing to skin hydration,” explains Dr Jason. “By the age of 40, most of us have lost around 20% of our collagen, which is what contributes to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This collagen loss continues as we age. So, finding ways to prevent collagen loss or replacing lost collagen in our skin clearly makes sense in terms of tackling skin-ageing.”

A lot of claims have been made about oral collagen supplements, as Dr Jason explains. “Oral collagen supplements are a big skincare trend which claims to improve skin hydration, fine lines and wrinkles and, more recently, treat acne.” 

It seems intuitive that ingesting collagen should work– after all, if we’re feeling run down, we can eat lots of citrus fruits to boost our vitamin C levels – however, we need to dive into the science to find out the truth about these popular supplements. 

Can collagen supplements really improve your skin?

“To put it simply, no,” says Dr Jason. “Collagen is a large protein that can’t be absorbed once you ingest it and, therefore, won’t travel to your skin.” The science of collagen supplements just doesn’t hold up – as nice it would be to have an easy way to plump up your skin. 

Dr Jason continues: “Collagen supplements come in the form of broken down collagen peptides, known as hydrolysates. Studies have shown that this broken down collagen gets absorbed from your gut and enters your bloodstream. But once in your bloodstream, there’s no definitive evidence to suggest that these hydrolysates get absorbed into your skin.”

If you’ve been convinced in the past by articles or videos discussing the benefits of collagen supplements, then you might be wondering where these claims are coming from. 

“A common hypothesis is that the hydrolysates stimulate collagen production in the skin, because your body recognises broken down collagen in your blood and, therefore, produces more collagen in your skin,” says Dr Jason. “This might be true in laboratory experiments, where collagen hydrolysates added to petri dishes with cultured skin stimulated skin cells to make more collagen. But no one has shown this to be the case in humans in real life, and so it’s only a theory that has not been proven scientifically.” 

“Randomised clinical trials, that look at the effects of collagen supplements compared to placebo, have shown that some changes in the skin occur,” continues Dr Jason. “But, definitive proof of their ability to improve the appearance of the skin is still lacking.”

Could collagen supplements help with acne?

“When it comes to acne, the evidence is even less convincing,” says Dr Jason. “When thinking about the mechanisms that cause acne, collagen supplements just do not make scientific sense.” 

Acne can have several different triggers, none of which are related to collagen – for that reason, collagen supplements won’t have an effect on breakouts. 

So, is it worth taking collagen supplements?

“I do not believe that there’s enough scientific evidence to prove collagen supplements are worth the hype and money,” says Dr Jason.  

If you’re really serious about improving fine lines and wrinkles, oral collagen supplements aren’t the answer. Instead, look to active ingredients – tretinoin, which works on a cellular level to boost the production of collagen. This powerful ingredient is the gold standard ingredient used to target the early signs of skin ageing.

Daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen is another way to reduce the fine lines and wrinkles associated with sun damage. Combine actives with sunscreen and you’re onto a winner – but it’s unlikely that collagen supplements are going to be particularly helpful in your skincare regime.