Melasma 101

Have you noticed some darker patches appearing on your face? They might be melasma, a harmless but common skin complaint. This persistent type of hyperpigmentation is characterised by uneven skin tone and is often worsened by sun exposure or hormonal changes. Today, our experts explain everything you need to know about the condition, its causes and gold standard treatments for smoother, glowing skin. 

What is melasma?

Melasma is the most common cause of hyperpigmentation and occurs when the melanin-producing cells in our skin become overstimulated.

A helpful identifier of melasma is that the pigmentary changes are usually symmetrical. These brown or greyish patches on the skin’s surface are harmless, but if you’re worried about new dark patches of skin then it’s always best to chat to a professional who can check them out. It’s more often seen in women with darker skin tones, but melasma can affect anyone, with most cases first occurring in our 30s or 40s.

What causes melasma?

Prolonged exposure to the sun makes the appearance of melasma worse and you might notice that your melasma becomes more visible in the summer.

Consultation Dermatologist, Dr Ben Esdaile explains, “This time of year always tends to be a busy time for melasma as sun exposure over the summer months tends to flare up the condition. Protecting the skin from both ultraviolet and visible light is essential and so the correct choice of sunscreen is a vital part of treatment.”

Hormonal changes in women can also lead to the sudden appearance of melasma, with up to 25 per cent of women taking the combined oral contraceptive pill and half of all pregnant women developing melasma – this is why melasma is often called the ‘mask of pregnancy’.

There’s also likely a genetic factor, with most people experiencing melasma reporting that their family members do too. While melasma is less common in men, they still make up around 10 percent of cases. This means that other factors besides female hormones and UV light are still at play, and the exact root cause of the skin condition remains unknown.

How does Skin + Me treat melasma? 

If you’re diagnosed with melasma by a Skin + Me Dermatology Clinician, you’ll be prescribed a personalised treatment cream containing a combination of powerful, evidence-based ingredients proven to be effective in treating melasma and maintaining remission. 

The gold standard treatment for melasma is a combination of hydroquinone (a topical treatment to regulate excess melanin production), tretinoin (a prescription-strength retinoid) and hydrocortisone (a topical steroid to minimise irritation from other ingredients). After a carefully controlled amount of time, your melasma cream formulation will change and adapt to include the ingredients of tretinoin, azelaic acid and niacinamide. 

Each solution is created month-by-month in bespoke quantities, and this staggered approach is clinically proven to be the most effective way to initially treat melasma and prevent it from recurring. 

New to Skin + Me? Get your first month of personalised skincare for £4.99 with promo code DOSE – complete our quick consultation here

What’s the best skincare routine for melasma?

While a personalised melasma treatment is a great starting point to get your new skincare journey rolling, it’s also crucial to take sun care seriously. Apply high-factor sunscreen (SPF 50+ with UVA and UVB protection) every single day to maintain your results. Remember, that unprotected exposure to the sun can undo months of successful melasma treatment.

Alongside regular sun protection and your personalised melasma treatment, a gentle cleanser and moisturiser are all you need to optimise your routine. 

If you do want to add an extra serum or treatment to your routine, Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Malvina Cunningham recommends “over-the-counter ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid, mandelic acid or arbutin for maintenance.” 

How long does it take to treat melasma?

You’re unique and so is your skin, which means there’s no one-size-fits-all answer here. The good news is that by using a derm-approved solution every evening, you could expect to see patches of pigmentation improve within two months. Then, it’s time to focus on maintaining the results. Skin + Me treatments will evolve to sustain your progress and prevent any future patches from appearing. 

The Skin + Me Dermatology Support Team is always here to guide you through your treatment, whether you need questions answered, need advice or to change your formulation. We’ll check in with you regularly to see how your skin is responding, and whether you need a change in your treatment plan. And, our lovely members of The Collective are always sharing tips and advice during their skin journeys – join the crew here.

Managing and reversing melasma is possible – it just takes a bit of extra care and a personalised routine. Even skin tone, here we come.

Medical facts checked by Head of Medical, Dr Jason Thomson.