why has my skincare stopped working

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Why Has My Skincare Stopped Working?

It’s a story that many of us are all too familiar with. A new skincare line drops, you see the glowing reviews on TikTok, add it to your basket, and a couple of days later you’re delighted to see that the latest wonder-product really does live up to the hype. 

Except, as time passes, it’s not quite delivering any more. Spots begin to return, the glow fades, and the super-hydrated skin you were just getting used to is no more. The new product works its magic and then it just… stops. 

Not only does your skin renew itself roughly once a month, but it can also be impacted by hormonal fluctuations and the environment around you. Add in the importance of using the right products and even how you store and apply them, and the perfect skincare routine is a difficult balance to strike.  

But how do you work out the reason for your progress pause – and what can you do to ensure you get the most out of your beauty investments? 

Using the wrong products

It sounds simple, but you’d be surprised how many people aren’t using products that are tailored to their skin’s needs. One of the first things you can do is identify your skin type – is it dry, oily, combination or balanced? Is there sensitivity to be aware of, and has your skin type changed over time? 

Once you have that, you can begin to build the perfect routine. Pay attention to how products feel on your skin. If a cleanser makes your skin feel tight, it might be time to try a gentler one, and if a serum makes your face tingle then it probably isn’t right for you. Be aware that “natural” products aren’t always best – sometimes they can be more irritating that synthetic blends – and the price tag of a product doesn’t necessarily reflect its quality.       

“I see many problems in clinic with people using the wrong product or using too many products and overloading their skin causing irritation and sometimes even damage,” says Malvina Cunningham, Consultant Dermatologist at Skin + Me. “Understanding what your skin needs and what you would like to achieve and then finding the right ingredients to do this is key.

Building a strong routine that benefits your skin type is the most important thing for skincare success – and it doesn’t have to be complicated. Start with the basics: cleanse, hydrate and protect against the sun (yes, even in winter!). Then, think about your skin type and what you want to achieve before you add in a targeted treatment or serum. The key is to not overload the skin – less is often more. 

Make sure you do your research before you pick up the latest product that’s setting Instagram alight. Think about how it will help you to achieve your skin goals and read up on different ingredients to find out how they actually work. If you’re feeling overwhelmed, we don’t blame you – our A-Z of skincare is a great place to start. 

Better still, get some independent advice from an expert who really knows their stuff. Dermatologists are a goldmine of useful information, but they can be expensive to access. The Skin + Me Dermatology Support Team can prescribe personalised products that will work for you in the long term, rather than just offer a quick fix. Start your journey here.

Lack of consistency

You know that old phrase “it’s a marathon, not a sprint”? Turns out, it’s super relevant when starting out on your skin journey. Although you might want quick results, you’re going to need to keep going in order to achieve your skin goals. 

Trends like skin cycling, where you use lots of different products in succession to maximise results, can be tempting to buy into but they don’t guarantee results. Instead, keep the comparison to exercise in mind, and stay consistent while you build up your routine. Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical at Skin + Me tells us, “By using lower concentrations more regularly, you can gradually build up your skin’s tolerance to the powerful active ingredients. This minimises the chance of side effects, such as dryness and sensitivity, whilst still getting the benefits.”

When it comes to your skincare routine, day 100 is as important as day one. All you need is five minutes in the morning and five minutes in the evening to apply your products. It’s also a great chance to take a little bit of time to yourself. Aaaaaand relax. 

“Consistency is key with skincare and that sticking to ingredients that have proven benefits is the best approach, not chopping and changing your products and routine.” 

– Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical at Skin + Me

If you’re using Skin + Me products it usually takes around eight weeks to start seeing results for acne treatment, and up to sixteen weeks for rosacea treatment. So, you’ll need to be in it for the long haul, and remember that progress isn’t always linear. We all have good days and bad days, so focus on the overall goal and remember how far you’ve come already.

Active ingredients

Active ingredients such as Vitamin A derivatives like retinol and super potent tretinoin can be highly effective in treating certain skin conditions like acne and rosacea. If you’ve been prescribed actives and have seen a halt to your skin’s progress, it might be time to chat to your prescriber. They’ll be able to tell you if it’s time to move onto a higher concentration, or if it’s best to carry on with what you’re already using. 

Then, stick religiously to the dosage set out by the expert – after all, they know exactly how much of an ingredient will yield the best results. That’s why Skin + Me created the Daily Doser, which takes away the guesswork. One click is all it takes to dispense the optimal amount of treatment cream for that day – pretty smart, if we do say so ourselves.

Making storage mistakes

Did you know that how you store your skincare can affect how well some products work? Now, we’re not suggesting that you take inspiration from beauty influencers with their own glam rooms and full-size fridges dedicated to beauty hauls – but, looking after your products will make a difference. 

You’ll want to keep your products away from direct sunlight and humidity as this can compromise their consistency. Over time, products stored in tubs can be negatively affected by exposure to the air. And, containers that you repeatedly stick your hands in can be a breeding ground for germs. 

The most notable active ingredient to keep chilled is Vitamin C. When exposed to light, air and high temperature it will oxidise and lose its efficacy. Retinols are also notoriously unstable compounds so it’s important to ensure that these products are stored in a cool, dark place. 

Ashkan Fathi, Head of Pharmacy at Skin + Me

Keep an eye on those use-by dates too, and if it smells weird or looks strange, it’s time to kiss it goodbye. We believe there’s nothing quite like a spring clean of your products, no matter what time of year it is. 

Using the wrong application techniques

The methods you use to apply your skincare can also play a role in their efficiency. Have you been rushing (or even skipping) your routine? Let’s get back to basics. Make sure your hands are clean, your hair is out of the way, and the water you’re using for cleansing is lukewarm, never hot. 

Rub in your cleanser gently – no aggressive scrubbing please – and pat it dry with a soft towel. When it comes to applying serums, treatments and moisturiser, the key is to be kind to your skin. A gentle facial massage as you work the products in is great – use three fingers and work your way from the centre of your face towards your neck and temples. Not only is it a nice treat to look forward to, but it can reduce tension and puffiness by improving blood flow.

Hormonal changes

Hormones are chemical messengers that influence processes and changes in the body. They can also influence skin health, meaning that you might see a rise or fall in hormones reflected in your skin. Hormones in flux can cause acne breakouts, hyperpigmentation and melasma amongst other 

Hormonal changes and imbalances are very common, and fluctuations happen naturally many times across our lifetimes. Menstrual cycles, menopause, pregnancy and puberty can all play a part in disrupting hormone levels. Certain medications can also influence your hormones, including those taken during gender transition, hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and hormonal methods of contraception. 

If your skincare suddenly stops working, it could be down to hormones. You might need to reevaluate what products you use at different times of your cycle – skin can become more oily or dry due to hormone fluctuations. Or, if you’re entering a new phase of your life, it might be time to update your regime to reflect your changing skin. 

“The menopause can have a big impact on a woman’s skin,” explains Dr Ben Esdaile, consultant dermatologist at Skin + Me. “Oestrogen plays an important role in our skin, with oestrogen receptors found in the skin. These are involved in key processes such as skin hydration, wound healing and promoting the building blocks of skin collagen and elastin. When you go through the menopause, the loss of oestrogen can result in increased dryness, itching, impaired wound healing and an accelerated loss of collagen which results in skin thinning, fine lines and wrinkles. 

If you’re worried about your hormones, you can speak to your GP for advice. And, a dermatologist will be able to recommend products that will work for your skin and help you to get back on track to achieve your goals.

Lifestyle factors

Sometimes you feel like you’re doing everything right but still aren’t happy with your skin – we’ve all been there.

Stress, diet, pollution and countless other elements of daily life may affect your skin. There might be no rhyme or reason for a breakout on a particular day, and genetics play a part too.

If you do notice a specific factor that affects your skin, then you can look into it and see if managing exposure makes a difference. And, caring for your physical and mental health by cultivating a healthy lifestyle will ultimately give your skin the best chance at glowing. 

So, it’s all down to finding the right treatments and building a sustainable regime that you can stick to. The timeline might be different for everyone, but with the correct ingredients for your skin type and a dermatologist-approved plan, you should be back on track for achieving your goals. Good luck – we’re right here with you!

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